It is about the middle of my three-month China trip since Nov 12, 2009. This is my third time stepping on Chinese soil, and like the previous two trips, this trip is just as significant. As a climber, climbing steep limestone, surprisingly, is my secondary purpose of this trip. My primary objective is to perform reconnaissance for my adventure travel business, LittlePo Adventures (a working title), and therefore I have been actively investigating aesthetic areas in China for active exploration and ultimate adventure. In the meanwhile, I have been making connections with local businesses and proposing collaboration projects with local residents.

I have been incubating the idea of launching a China adventure travel business since 2004. It was the fourth year of my PhD study at University of Pennsylvania and the second year since I started engaging in outdoor endeavors. Many of my outdoor friends who have strongly related to my passion towards nature and technical skills often asked me what the outdoor environment is like in China and Taiwan. I often was able to amaze them by enumerating geographical facts I acquired from textbooks, literature and historic novels; however, I was not capable to describe any deeper connection and appreciation people usually feel after physical exertion, i.e. hiking, climbing, and paddling etc. I left my friends hanging, longing for adventures and exploration in China’s mountain ranges, scenic rivers, and rich culture. The only difference is that I have been feeling the void for a couple decades and they have perhaps for only a few years. I made up my mind then - someday, I will bring my English-speaking friends to experience China and Chinese speaking friends to awe the natural wonders in the States.

Since then, I have actively accumulated my credentials. I became an active volunteer backpacking leader for the AMC. In order to acquire technical skills in a systematic way to speed up the learning process, I took several NOLS courses on glacier mountaineering and rock climbing. In May 2007, I defended my thesis and secured my PhD degree in computational linguistics and a month later I was in Alaska attempting Denali, the highest peak of North America. Denali climb was, and still is, the most exhausting expedition I had ever endured; I also learned a valuable lesson on Denali: I had to turn around at 19,400 feet because of acute mountain sickness. After I arrived home safely, I realized that while I like computer science, I have to do what I love. It is like when nature calls, you just ought to act upon it. “Like” is not enough to push me far in life; “Love” can and it brings enlightenment along the journey. I practice a near dirtbag lifestyle to climb at various climbing destinations to build up a solid foundation and to familiarize with different type of rocks in order to become a better climber. I work for several outdoor education organizations, including NOLS, and now I dare to call myself a competent outdoor educator and climbing instructor.

Last winter, I spent a month climbing in Yangshuo, one of the most developed rock climbing destinations in China. The experience struck me that it was time to put forth my five-year-old baby into reality. And these three months scouting in China will be my springboard for a well thought-out launch.

Like all small business entrepreneurs, I am always thinking of my niche. What are my strengths? What can I provide? Who are my potential customers/clients? What is my mission? All these questions formed a gigantic spider web and at times I felt anxious and stuck. I went back and forth trying to escape from the phantom threat of this imaginary poisonous spider. Finally, resorting to my original motivation gave me the answer. I wanted to bring my American friends to experience China and that is it. I want to guide a small and intimate group from the States to enjoy what they love to do in the outdoor in foreign terrain. The foreign terrain provides excitement and healthy risk for them to endure and I can enrich the China experience not only because I am a native Chinese speaker but also I am well educated in Chinese literature, history, geography, and philosophy. In addition to my outdoor expertise, my clients who are also my friends can have the safety net in a foreign land.

My plan is to consult with every single client with what they need and what they want to accomplish and work hard towards fulfilling them. My clients will be with me and my local friends from the very first second till the last second and they will not be thrown around between random outsourcing companies. Every trip will be personal and completely customizable.

So far, I plan to present three types of adventures (all the names are working titles):

1. Dirtbag China Climbing Series - suitable for rock climbers who look for maximum time of rock climbing in amazing scenic destinations, are willing to sacrifice some physical comfort in exchange of cost reduction, and are excited to enjoy cheap but delicious street food for most meals.
2. Active China Trekking Series - suitable for hikers or backpackers who appreciate trekking in pristine mountain ranges or hard-to-get-to historical sites to experience way beyond what ordinary tourists can endure.
3. Recon Trip Tag-Along - suitable for anybody who wants to tag along with me on my scouting trip and is okay with only figuring out a few days ahead at a time, and can tolerate the unexpected. The benefit is to explore a totally unknown territory with an experienced traveler and native Chinese speaker.

I am very excited and committed to make it happen. I am also willing to take input and suggestions from any of you to help me refine the plan. Feedback and a different perspective always helps, and that is especially true because the following principle is what I will always apply when conducting my business - “your friend is your guide.”

Stone Forest, Yunnan China

Alberto Bolting a new route in Fumin Yunnan China

On Nov 12, 2009, I stepped in China again. This time, I came to China with a mission besides rock climbing. I am here to scout climbing and trekking destinations for my Adventure Travel business, which focuses on outdoor adventures in Chinese speaking countries including Taiwan and China. I have traveled through Hong Kong, Yangshuo, Kunming, Fu Min, and now I am in Dali and will head to Lijiang fairly soon. Before I have some time to reflect on my experience and blog about my experience and thoughts, let me share some photos with you first!

Dien Lake: 6th largest freshwater lake in China

Stone Forest LittlePo's fake bouldering

LittlePo chatting with climbers from Kunming in Fu Min

Mark Top-Roping at Lower Red Rock in Fumin Yunnan China

“It says that Yangshuo is the most westernized city in China,” Ian pointed at the computer screen quoting the sentence he just learned from SummitPost. “Oh No!” I screamed out this reflex response and soon enough my brain was loaded up with images derived from my wild imagination and my head was covered by cold sweat. I knew I was overreacting and I wasn’t sure what I worried about: Starbucks and McDonalds taking control of the streets? Everybody speaking fluent English? What does that even mean by “westernized”? Why do I subconsciously resist this idea? What do I truly dislike, being westernized or touristy?

Upon arrival, we were soon surrounded by countless middle-age women with photos of hotels, sightseeing spots, wanting to squeeze some business money out of us. Throughout our stay, this became a regular scene because we usually traveled with our backpacks and “Bu Yao, Xie Xie (No, thank you)” soon became one of the Chinese phrases Ian mastered.

The first sight we checked was the West Street. It’s a coincidence that this street is also where you see the most westerners. However, this street has quite a long history and it preserves the traditional architecture and stone pavements. Furthermore, its side street was the former residence of a famous painter of early 1900’s, who is well-known by his brush-painted horses. Currently the street presents a mixture of Chinese and western flavors. Here is the place you can find western restaurants which serve English breakfast, American hamburgers, French home brewed beer etc; oh did I mention that every restaurant on this street has English menus? In between shops that sell souvenirs and antiques, you see bars and nightclubs which are truly western imports. The fact that there is also an East Street which is fairly quiet, unavoidably stimulated me to have some unwanted associations.

One night when I dined out with Ian and three just-met European adventurous bikers, we were a target of a three-Chinese-girl team wandering around West Street with the mission of recruiting westerners for English chats at the so called “English Corner” school. In exchange, westerners were offered free beers. Ian couldn’t turn down this offer and was as well intrigued by the whole scene; therefore he dragged me there regardless of my resistance. Over there, I tried to keep silent at the beginning but I gave in because some students requested help from me for a few words. Once the girls found out that I speak fluent English, all of a sudden, I became the spotlight. Girls wanted me to share tips with them about how to master English, how to get to United States and stay abroad etc. I shared some of my experience but in the meantime I was uncomfortable due to some of the girls’ overeagerness.

Ian suggested for me to relax, he said that these girls simply projected me as their role model, “You are one of them, you look just like them and you speak perfect English;” he concluded that it was a good thing because “you are an inspiration to them.” Aside from feeling a bit pressured by being categorized as some sort of role model, what I most worried about was that some girls seem to think mastering English is their shortcut to success. I am afraid that if they get too desperate they can lose their individuality. Perhaps I think too much. These girls are still so young and this is merely one phase they are going through. I remember later in my stay I bumped into them on West Street because we were all there trying to get a good watching spot for the beer drinking competition which was one of the programs of Yangshuo’s yearly festival. I was happy that I got to see them in a different setting and they talked with us in English because Ian was around, and their English was just fine because they were not trying to find topics to chat. I laughed at myself and smiled.

Ian and I arrived at Yangshuo on November 19th, we missed the first Yangshuo Rock Climbing Festival but we got to be part of the 10th Yangshuo Yu Huo Festival (literally translation: Yu Huo means fishing and fire). The festival has some interesting programs such as West Street beer drinking competition, a 40-minute long fireworks display along Li River with bonfires on the shore and candle lights on countless drifting bamboo rafts, an election of Yangshuo West Street spokesperson (more like a beauty contest), and literally a-thousand-people tug of war. I was most impressed by the fireworks and local people proudly told us that their fireworks are bigger and more splendid than National Day fireworks. The tug of war was impressive too because where do you find so many people to be in one team other than China? When we were climbing at crags, sometimes local people came to watch and chatted with us about the recent climbing festival. According to their description, there were hundreds of competitors and thousands of spectators, and they told me “tons of westerners were here too.”

Yangshuo is well know for its tourism, and it is still developing toward the top of tourism. New hotels are being built everyday and according to the regulations buildings can not pass a certain height in case they block the views. They openly encourage climbers to open more lines on their endless limestone towers. Parents of neighboring provinces send their kids to English language focus schools here due to the high number of western tourists and western teachers here.

I have this contradictory thought: on one hand I love to see people in this town have better income and better living conditions due to the booming tourism; on the other hand, I am afraid that the town might lose its spirit and characteristics due to the rapid growth of tourism. Ian, as a native and therefore a witness of the growth of Bend Oregon, provided an interesting perspective. Bend Oregon used to be a logging town, the fact that it became touristy has saved many trees. It’s a balancing act between overly pandering to the public and saving natural resources as a side effect. Besides, other than its landscape, Yangshuo has much to offer, for example, some of its featured agricultural products are not easily replaceable.

Let’s go back to the topic, westernized Yangshuo. According to the stats, the number of westerners visiting Yangshuo every year is more than three times of that of local residents. The statement of Yangshuo being the most westernized city in China might be true; however, it’s still too early to say that Yangshuo is westernized. If you do not speak any Chinese, it’s kind of difficult to order dishes outside West Street and it takes longer to get familiarized with the local bus lines, not to mention deliberate bargaining with local vendors (which is a must-have skill in China).

I felt relieved that I did not see any Starbucks or Mcdonalds and the only fast food chain restaurant, Kentucky Fried Chicken, was not so intrusive on West Street. Ironically, I after all wished that Yangshuo were more westernized in terms of the service. I felt embarrassed and uncomfortable when the service person gave us an attitude if we turned down their menu. I felt awkward that right after we sat down in a restaurant, the server wanted us to order right away even before I started reading the menu. I felt that I wanted to run away from a shop because every time I browse a store, a salesperson followed each of my foot steps. In my vague definition in western world people give other people a bit more space, and it seems that space is still a new concept for an over-populated country like China.

I chatted about these phenomena with my mom after the trip. It seems that these were common too in early days of Taiwan but things have changed evidently. Taiwan is also over-populated; however, due to its physical conditions, Taiwan had to open up to the world much earlier than China. The living conditions got better in Taiwan much earlier than those in China and a higher percentage of the population had a chance to get an education.

We stayed in Yangshuo for about a month and we visited the local bus station almost daily because bus was the most efficient way to get to local crags. Toward the end of our stay, Ian noticed that women at the station had stopped trying to make us stay in some hotels or sell us tickets to tourist spots; he acclaimed, “Szu-ting, we are local now.” Well, I felt that I had fit in just fine so much earlier but the point is Yangshuo might look touristy at first glance but once you have settled in there is much more. People here do earn some money from tourists but people live here too. Once I was aware of that, I started to enjoy this place much more.

Looking back to this China trip, I couldn’t help but compare my personal experience to China’s current situation. I started to study English when I was 11, not only because it was a required subject in school, but also because people generally believed that we needed to master English in order to be competitive, to “not lose on the starting line.” To be honest, I hated English back then. I wasn’t sure whether it was related to the fact that I love Chinese literature, and I love all the disappearing Chinese arts. I spent quite some time indulging in classical Chinese books, practicing Chinese calligraphy, and doing research on regional traditional operas. I had never thought that I would reside in the United States, so I kept my English grades just good enough so that I could enter a good college.

And then I came to the States. I had a hard time during the first two years communicating with people. I failed my first attempt of my oral qualifying exam and I remember vividly that my advisor told me that I was in the United States and in order to be successful I had to speak English well. Now my English is much better and my Chinese didn’t get worse. Many of my Taiwanese friends like to say that I am Americanized because I truly enjoy my life in the States and I have many American friends. But to me and to my American friends, I am not at all Americanized: I still preserve my identity and I have a unique signature. I have been observing the strengths and shortcomings of both American and Chinese culture and I am a firm believer that the best lies somewhere in between, and that’s what I strive for.

Not until maybe two or three decades ago did China start to open up to the world. China wants to be internationally competitive; people want to improve their living conditions. The word “western” is loved and hated at the same time. I am rather optimistic because I kind of went through a similar phase and I love the way I am. Western culture might be dominant but Chinese culture is stubborn. China’s future is worth anticipating.

photo credit: Ian Farquhar

I have visited China twice and the two trips are more than a decade apart. It’s not easy to describe my feelings toward China; sometimes I feel consciously familiar but emotionally detached, while sometimes I feel the exact opposite. I have lived in the States for more than a decade too. When people asked me about where I am from, what my heritage is, I often say I am culturally Chinese but nationality-wise I am Taiwanese. I was born in the same year when “the great leader,” Chiang Kai Shek, died. That was a symbolic year – many underground currents eventually had a chance to surface, many transformations and movements were initiated or put in progress. I was growing up through many transitions which I didn’t fully understand at that time. Luckily I was so young that I wasn’t in need for a direction of life otherwise I would have been totally lost.

Chiang Kai Shek lost the civil war to Mao Zedong, and retreated to Taiwan in 1949. The failure of seeking international support to recover the lost land forced the Chiang government to take root in Taiwan; until he died, Chiang and his troops, originally recruited in various provinces in China, had never returned to China. Chiang considered his government the orthodox ruling power of China, and therefore the true representative of Chinese heritage. The proof can be found in the textbooks of my history and geography classes; however, the history after year 1949 described in textbooks and all available publications back then was subjective and partial; in geography textbooks, the structure of Chinese administrative divisions was frozen at the moment of Chiang’s retreat.

When I was in elementary school, I would get fined if I spoke a local dialect other than Mandarin Chinese, I had to put propaganda in my essays otherwise I could not get good grades, and my patriotic school teacher ripped my art work apart furiously because I drew a star on my picture (but I only drew one not five!). We wanted to fight back because we needed to save Chinese people from suffering and because the magnificent mountains and gorgeous rivers which have been developing characters and literature for five thousand years were ours. I had no idea how to interpret politics but I had a long to-visit list, Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, Tibetan Plateau, Pamir Mountains, the Three Gorges of Yangtze River, the Five Mountains (Mount Tai, Mount Hua, Mount Song, Mount Heng in Shanxi, and Mount Heng in Hunan), the Silk Road, etc. I didn’t know when I would be able to visit those places but I couldn’t help but wish China were in fact ours.

Things started to change about the time when I went to junior high. We were no longer in martial law and the government was working on policies so that veterans could go back to mainland China to visit their relatives (or graves). Years later, I visited China for my first time with my Taiwan Compatriot Entry Permit instead of my Taiwan passport, which was and is still not considered a valid travel document by China.

The first time I visited China I toured the Silk Road – from Xi’an to Urumchi, from being astonished by Terracotta Army to riding camels passing Ming Sha Shan (the singing dessert), from Lan Zhou pulled noodles to Xin Jiang kabobs… The historic assets and the scenery were impressive; the food was delicious; people were generally friendly except for the aggressive small vendors and some bookstore owners trying to educate us about “One China.” We mimicked local accents to get away from prohibitively expensive tickets charged at touring spots (their ticket price had 3 tiers: locals, foreigners, and Taiwanese). However, it didn’t always work because people there were poor and we stood out wherever we went because we wore nicer clothes.

More than a decade later, I was preparing to visit China for my second time, and my destination was Yangshuo, a rock climbing destination. I have known this place for more than two decades because every Chinese knows this saying “Guilin has the best landscape of the world and Yangshuo has the best of Guilin.” And Yangshuo has proved this saying by proudly displaying its clear and winding Li River surrounded by continuous karst mountains and most importantly by generously letting me be on top of numerous limestone towers. I still stood out and that was not because of my clothes but because of my accompanying western friends. People were generally friendly; small vendors were not as aggressive and nobody bothered to convince me that Taiwan is part of Chinese territory.

I learned how to rock climb in the States and this fall I had a goal to climb at home. I was disappointed that I only climbed a couple routes in Long Dong, Taiwan because it rained all the time when I was there. Interestingly enough, climbing at Yangshuo made up for it. I would definitely not claim that China is ours but I can’t deny that I was feeling quite at home when I was in Yangshuo which I didn’t get the first time visiting China. China has changed much and it is still changing rapidly. I am most happy about its open policies which have shrunken the gap between Taiwan and China; I am most worried about its tourism resources. The Three Gorges were gone before I could see them and more has disappeared underneath the giant wheel of economic development. As a culturally Chinese person I feel distressed that China has lost much to the Cultural Revolution. I can’t afford for more mountains and rivers to be extracted from my beloved literature and poetry. I used to think the only thing I could do was to cross my fingers and hope. Now I am thinking of things I can do so that other kids’ wishes will come true the way mine did. I might not love China as a nationalist but I would love to see it become a great country.

photo credit: Ian Farquhar

這真的是很久以前的事情了，來了美國之後，雖然認識了許多友善的德國朋友，對於法蘭克福青年旅社坐櫃臺的那位撲克臉青年，還是難以釋懷。

到了法蘭克福，我的歐洲自助行也接近尾聲，當晚接近宵禁時間才悄悄摸進房間，總共四個上下舖，八個床位，我草草地將身上大包小包，唏嚕呼嚕地塞進一個空著的櫃子，就倒頭大睡了。

隔天醒來，打點行囊，準備隨意在市區逛逛，就搭火車前往巴黎機場直赴費城，不料睡我下舖的一個女孩苦著一張臉，焦急萬狀。本著大家都是自助旅行者，雖是萍水相逢，還是問了問訊，才知道這個女孩也是從台灣過來，由於在台服務於一家德商公司，德國自然成為自助的首選，當天就要搭飛機返台，前晚睡覺的時候，以防萬一緊緊地擁著裝有機票、證件以及旅費的小包包而眠，誰知道今早起來還是不翼而飛。

我勸她先向櫃臺問訊，也許偷兒只取走現金，會有人發現她的包包也說不定，若是不成，我們再來地毯大搜索，走一步算一步。

沒想到櫃臺的那位仁兄，聽到物品遺失，馬上板起著一張嚴肅的臉，一口撇清關係，說是旅客遺失錢財責任自付，還怪說櫃臺明明提供小鎖出租，言下之意那位女孩因小失大，現在可是後悔莫及。我兩人的心頭都沈了一沈，早先只是想說有無「失物招領」，現在卻被落井下石。我兩決定逗留在該青年旅社，做一番搜尋，就算是大海撈針也罷，而那位櫃臺仁兄似乎洞悉我們的意圖，還明示暗示地說，若我們沒有和住宿相關的事情，還是早早離開為是。

那女孩快要急瘋了，掉東西的憂愁，有家歸不得的焦慮，受到排喧的委屈，最後好不容易下個決心到柏林去找她的上司，我也把身上所有的現金都掏摸給她資助旅費。這時同房間的另一位女孩看我們熱鍋螞蟻的模樣，也好心地走過來細問情況，她回憶說今早她去洗手間的時候，隱約看到某個抽水馬桶後面有個像是女孩敘述的包包，女孩匆匆道了謝就衝了出去，回來的時候是一副如釋重負的表情。現金飛是飛了，機票、證件都還在，信用卡也沒被取走，她千謝萬謝地說有了信用卡，不需要跟我借錢了，我倆互相留下了聯絡方式，就互道珍重，各趕各的行程。

回頭想想，我真的好運氣，所有東西都粗心大意的置放在無鎖的櫃子裡，反而沒有受到偷兒的青睞，幸好那女孩也只有金錢損失罷了，只不過回憶起那張撲克臉，還是微微有氣，我們也沒有賴上他們青年旅社，問一聲失物也不得嗎？一定要板起那一副「公事公辦」的臉？怎麼說，只能說自助行，就要有完全自助的準備。

在法國，這一個很小的小鎮，卻因為處於阿爾卑斯山白朗峰的山腳下，而顯得地位重要。

這天，不是星期假日，小鎮上擠滿了人，我和友伴是在夜幕低垂的時分，才勉強把自己填進這份熱鬧中來。鬧烘烘地人聲蓋不過轆轆的胃叫腸吼，朋友和我就近找了家有些擁擠又不會太擁擠的餐廳，就側身走進去了。

侍者是個青年，笑盈盈地帶領我們到餐桌坐定，遞了菜單。友人和我翻開菜單，朋友說：「這家的菜單真奇怪，怎麼沒有肉？」我快速掃瞄了一下，指指最後一頁的 roast beef 說，好像就只有這個了。朋友悄悄地嘀咕說：「這不是生肉吧？可以吃嗎？」

說著話的同時，侍者又笑盈盈地走過來說，「你們要先點什麼飲料呢？」朋友不假思索地說：「一杯水就可以了」，我眼睛飛快地掃過飲料列表，發現連喝杯咖啡也是奢侈，吞了吞口水說：「水就可以了」。侍者接著問我們要什麼品牌的，我解釋著說：「一般的水就可以了，我們不要罐裝水。」話的尾因還沒有結束，侍者的臉整個就垮下來了，我看了他一眼，他於是轉身離去，喃喃地似乎唸說：「沒有錢還要來這裡吃」

我感到有點受傷，朋友說是我太敏感，只是一會兒，侍者走過來重重地放下兩杯水，就頭也不回地離去了，我不開心地要換家餐廳吃飯，朋友太累了不想再找自己麻煩。我嘆了一口氣準備點菜，左等右等等不到侍者過來，左右張望了一下，發現他正開心地跟老顧客們聊天，只得親自起身去招呼他的大架，聽了我們沒有前菜、沒有沙拉只點了兩個小菜，嘴裡又碎碎唸地一臉嫌惡走開了。這下就連我朋友也發現到了，很無奈地說：「等菜來吧。」

兩道菜又是千呼萬喚始出來，朋友點的 roast beef就是十幾片切得薄薄的牛肉片，成同心圓狀地排列在盤中，沒有醬汁，也沒有配菜，我則是老老實實地點了個三明治，至少還有麵包可以吃。朋友皺著眉頭生吞活吞地灌完了牛肉，胃裡頭似乎更覺得空虛，我則細嚼慢嚥我那小小的三明治，試圖營造一些飽足感。

侍者不知道是嫌我們小家子氣，還是真的希望我們再點多一些，不管我們怎麼跟他招呼，他始終逕自和其他顧客聊得春風滿面。朋友和我等得瞌睡蟲都跑出來了，我指指餐廳深處，說：「我們自己到櫃臺結帳吧！」

兩人才剛起身，該個侍者像是警鈴大作一般，嚷嚷著：「這兩個黃種人打算要吃白食啊」接下來各種語言都出籠了，也不知道他在發作些什麼。我火了，拍了拍桌子準備要吵架，走上前說著：「叫你們的經理出來」，朋友居然匆匆地丟下一些錢，死拉活拉地把我拉出了餐廳。

我一直被拉出好幾條街外，朋友才放鬆了手，我的拳頭仍然在空中揮舞地無法止息，瞪著眼睛說：「你把我拉出來幹什麼？」朋友說：「台灣人在外的旅遊形象已經夠差了，不要再搞壞了」我生氣地說：「不理論才是把台灣人的形象弄壞了，這樣窩囊囊地走出來，人家還真以為我們要吃白食哩，是非黑白要弄個清楚，該個侍者態度這個差，非給他應有的懲罰不可。」

最後，折騰了老半天，該吵的架沒吵，不該吵的架卻熱熱鬧鬧地上演。這件事，我想，是之後我和朋友所以分道揚鑣的導火線。

其實，對我來說，這只不過是一個餐廳服務不佳的案例。上演的場合一換，就變成國家民族形象之爭；上演的角色一複雜，也許還可以更擴大為種族歧視的紛擾。只是，問題的本身，真的有這麼嚴重嗎？

這是一個我很愛講的故事。

話說，那天下午，步出瑞士某一個城鎮的火車站，首要之務就是換些錢來用用。根據以往歐洲城市遊觀的經驗，不慌不忙晃著個三街兩巷，保證可以找到家銀行。果不其然，這個金錢的交易，就在我踱步、銀行行員微笑之間，順利完成了。

當時閒散的心情下，也沒有考慮下一步的行程，心想，先回火車站再說吧，歐洲的火車站總是有旅客服務中心。偏偏回首來時路，三曲兩拐，早已迷失原來路徑。噫，還是不慌不忙，有備無患地拿出包袱中的街道地圖，旅行這麼幾天，找個地方還難得倒我嗎？

就在我攤開地圖之際，從背後搖晃過來一聲親切的問候，「迷路了嗎？告訴我你想去哪裡吧！」我回過頭，白髮蒼蒼，臉上顯著歲月的痕跡的老太太，帶著迷死人不償命的微笑，甜甜地注視著我。在這股甜蜜的壓力下，我束手就降：「我要找這個火車站，你可不可告訴我，在哪一個方向？」

「喔，要去火車站啊」她指著路旁的公車站牌，繼續說著：「妳可以坐這一路公車喔。」呃，我也只不過，嗯，掐指算算，走了不到十分鐘的路啊，坐公車不是太誇張了，有點像是恩將仇報的心虛，我聽得見我用相當虛弱的音量答說：「請告訴我哪一個方向就好了，我可以用走的。」「不用客氣啊，我也要坐這一路公車，跟我一起來吧。」談笑之間，老太太就把我拉上迎面而來的大巴士。

老太太眼明手快地找到一個位置坐下，也示意我別站著，我左瞧又看，老先生旁邊坐著老太太，老太太旁邊坐著個老先生，全車都是老先生，老太太，全都瞪大著親善的眼神，甜甜地看著我，我靦腆地笑了一下，還是尷尬地站在車門旁邊，拉著扶手，盡量保持著微笑，心想，「很快就到了，很快就到了」

不到兩分鐘吧，公車停下來，先前指點我的老太太準備下車了，還不忘回頭過來跟我說，下一站妳就該下車囉！我點點頭謝謝她，老太太於是又轉頭和車上所有的老先生老太太招呼，「等一下要提醒她該下車囉！」老先生老太太們全部頷首微笑。

老太太下車不久，一位老先生欠起身跟我說，「下一站該下車囉！」又過了不到一分鐘，另一位老先生說，「記得下一站要下車囉」，又是一會兒，一個老太太轉頭過來說，「要下車囉」，我滿臉通紅地走到車前門，對全車唯一的年輕人司機先生說，「呃，我要投多少錢？」不知道怎麼地，年輕司機也是滿臉通紅地，慌張地說「喔，不用投，不用投」

我走下車，咦，這看起來不像是火車站啊，一位老太太探出頭來說，「往回走，左手邊你會看到階梯，階梯走上去就是火車站！」我邁步向前，回過頭，幾個老先生幾個老太太跟我揮手招呼，我笑笑地也揮揮手，想說公車是出了什麼問題嗎？怎麼停在那邊一動也不動呢？這不是終點站啊？

也想不了這麼多，繼續往前走，果然看到傳說中的階梯，就在我轉身，踏上第一階階梯的那一刻，我聽到公車引擎的轟轟聲，公車開動了，我突然恍然大悟。於是，點起一個輕鬆的微笑，火車站，在那一頭。

由於經濟拮据，當年的我對於每天的預算可是錙銖必較，早餐、午餐、晚餐盡量在樸實的麵包店或是超市尋找，既美味又廉價，也不會在營養成分上虧待自己。

這個晚上，很壯麗也很纏綿。在凱旋門下，熊熊燃燒的火焰和四周的探照燈，把拱門、恣意親吻的情人的身軀、以及我的臉龐，打成金黃樣的富麗。巴黎的地標艾非爾鐵塔一樣冷冷的數著一千多階的金屬階梯，腹腰間卻是熱鬧地倒數著千禧年的蒞臨。一彎新月偏偏緊傍在旁，似乎取笑著對立紛呈的不平衡，還是享受著荒謬的期盼或是情人的甜蜜？

大亮著車前燈的車輛，洶湧地擠往凱旋門，又漩渦狀地捲出去。我捨棄了香榭里舍大道的人聲鼎沸，循著小街小巷弄，慢慢踱行前往下榻的旅社。街道很安靜，少有行人，我也許錯過了很多詩人畫家曾經享譽盛名的舊居所，也略過了很多織成巴黎道路經緯的地下鐵站。

幾盞燈卻停留在小巷居中的店面，店面前一籃一籃的水果，有桃子也有蘋果。我停下步伐對綠嫩嫩的蘋果品頭論足，那一廂老闆和客人正交換著我不明白的異國語言。

等老闆細心地用紙袋把我挑選的兩顆蘋果包起，注意力突然轉移到我身上來，笑著的眼光打量了我幾下，問說妳從哪裡來？

我說台北，這位法國伯伯可樂了，說好多年以前也去台北住了好一段時日，說著津津樂道著台北無處不可以找到了不起的美食。我不好意思地回應著說，怎麼會，法國的料理可是享譽盛名。伯伯撇了一口氣說，那種饗宴可是用錢堆積出來的好料，哪像台北平民化的飲食也是人間美味。

看著我不相信的神情，他拉著我走進雜貨店，說著法國一般人吃的食物除了沙拉讓他愛的緊之外，他指著貨架上一排乾貨和罐頭，要我看看一般時候法國人都怎麼虐待他們的胃。我看了也不明白究竟是哪些食物，只是法國伯伯對台灣食物的讚譽，比較起其他人只是因為兩岸情勢而聞知這個島嶼，讓我感覺到溫馨萬分。

我微笑著搖搖手說，我該回去了。法國伯伯伸出他溫厚的大手，我於是把裝著蘋果的紙袋移到左手，也伸出了我的右手。法國伯伯往前踏了一大步，盤住了我的肩頭，一邊一下的親了我兩邊的臉頰，我呆站在當地，法國伯伯笑呵呵地說，我一定要再去台灣一趟，我才回過神來和他揮手告別。

當晚，我吃了一顆蘋果，青蘋果的滋味不論在台北還是巴黎，似乎，都是又酸又甜。

朋友家一場電影會「Italian Job」，裡頭阡陌縱橫的威尼斯水道，又把我的心思牽回數年前的那場夢幻。

旅遊的經驗不少，真正踽踽獨行的，只有數年前、那三個多禮拜的歐洲大陸。

隻身的亞洲女孩在歐洲總是遭致不少好奇目光，天天聽到的，就是些白皮膚的少年、青年、歐里桑追著你「可尼幾娃」的滿街跑，置之不理，又開始「妳好妳好」的不停試探。

身在他鄉，人心難側，總是禮貌客氣的謝謝所有午餐、下午茶、晚餐、小酒、咖啡。差點動搖的唯一一次，就是在義大利。記得剛逛完米蘭的教堂前廣場，一大片一大片的群鴿亂舞，不怕人的。現實的、可能盯著你手上是不是有把碎麵包，大部分的、還是悠閒地晃悠晃悠，誰管你海枯石爛、地動山搖。

離開了鴿群的群眾暴力，走著走著就來到一個十字路口，路正中間圓環的雕像吸引住我的目光，耐心地等待著第一個打我面前過的路人，為我拍張照片。路人很靦腆，客客氣氣地幫了我這個忙，低著頭也不知道是否紅了臉頰，走進了一棟建築物。

我在那裡逗留了一會，路人又走出建築物，羞澀地說，「我的英文講得不是很流利，不過不知道有沒有這個榮幸可以邀請妳共進午餐」，原來該棟建築物就是他經營的餐廳。看他一臉誠懇地樣子，全不像之前遇到的輕佻，我吸了一口氣，還是編出一個要趕火車到威尼斯的藉口。他又客客氣氣地，說聲「那真可惜啊」，又走進了建築物。

我在原地楞了又是一會，喃喃地跟自己說道：「去趕火車吧」。

從米蘭到威尼斯，也不記得是多遙遠的距離，不知不覺就在搖擺中沈沈地睡去，睜開眼睛，望向窗外，噫，我們就好似漂浮在海面上的一條長龍，左也是水、右也是水，無邊無岸，唯一的寄託就是底下這一條細細長長的軌路。時已向晚，大片的金黃輝映在水面上，就算不似詩仙酒醉，也恨不得縱身入水撈出些光與熱。

威尼斯到了。

威尼斯受歡迎的程度，恐怕吸引了為數不少的觀光客，這個城市是唯一一個讓我找住宿地頭大的地方。那天一下了火車，急急忙忙地奔到旅客服務中心，所有連線的住宿全告客滿，接待我的小姐也一臉歉然的表情，正想再到大街上亂槍打鳥，接待小姐說：「有了，你願不願意露營？」二話不說，直奔浪漫水城的露營區，神奇的是，該露營區居然有，外表看來像是活動包廂（帶有四個大輪子），裡頭卻是二床、二椅、二櫥櫃，不輸 Motel 的設施。於是當晚我就在露營地上，睡著包著白布床單的柔軟床墊。

隔天，在城市中閒逛，瞥見修女經營的只供女性留宿的地方，貪圖地利方便，二話不說就走進申請了一個床位。沒想到，還真的是一個床位而已。住宿的地方，猜想是從前的禮拜堂改建而成的，很樸實，就是整整齊齊地在大廳堂裡排滿了上百張的床，伸長了手臂就可以觸摸到左右鄰居，唯一的奢侈品就是附隨在床邊的小小床頭櫃。大家都很守規矩，熄燈時候，大家就就寢了，一點嘲雜的聲音都聽不到。我也睡得很安穩，也許女孩子比較少有打呼的吧。

威尼斯是我心目中，歐遊路經城市中的第一名。人到哪裡，水就跟到哪裡。

水道南來北往，沒能夠有大路汽車，取而代之的是 water bus ，以及 water taxi。我喜歡踏上 water bus ，站在船邊，看著俊逸的義大利青年，扣住出入口的那條麻繩，船於是緩緩然「噗噗噗」地蕩著前進。趕時間的行人，可以雇艄 water taxi ，船小身輕加上電動馬達，馬上帶你到目的地。還有傳統風味的人工擺渡，猶如其他歐洲城市的馬車，可以讓人在城市中沈溺著一下午。

又是一場電影欣賞，「Under the Tuscan Sun」，比臉還巨大的向日葵花田，羅馬街道，海岸風情。多少人對義大利的印象就是說不出的浪漫吧。

那樣地風景，讓人心怦怦怦怦跳個不停，靜下心後，誰不想去呢？

已經是春天了，這個時節的天氣最是叫人難以捉摸，乍暖還寒，時晴時雨，讓人不傷風感冒也難。

星期五下午，持續好幾天的陰霾天空，還是俐落地打下雨點。收拾完桌面上散落的文件，我敲了個 email 給男友，不久之後，他出現在我面前，苦著臉說，「下著雨呢，明天真的要去嗎？」我撐起一個開朗，實際上是勉勵的表情說，「當然囉，這個活動可是『rain or shine』的唷。」

自從費城家家戶戶的前院，陸陸續續出現怒放的水仙，沈寂一個冬天的光枯樹幹，也有幾梢露出春天的消息，一個冬天來，除了滑雪以外，哪裡都沒有拜訪的我，早已耐不住居家的感覺，一個禮拜前興沖沖地註冊參加由 Wilmington Trail Club （http://www.wilmingtontrailclub.org）所舉辦的「2004 BRANDYWINE TRAIL END TO END HIKE」，決定將這個全長 35.5 miles 的旅程，作為開始 backpacking 季節的暖身運動。

為了趕早上六點的集合時間，我和男友在四點一刻的時候就離開費城。天很暗，雨也似乎沒有歇過， 95 公路上沒有幾輛車，這寂寞的公路特別讓人覺得路途遙遠。

我一向不喜歡在晚間開車，更何況雨下得緊，唯一的聊天對象打著瞌睡。不禁開始自怨自艾地想，「為什麼我這麼愛到處跑來跑去呢？」「旅行吸引我的地方到底在哪裡呢？」說不出什麼結論來，只是長在這個人世間將近 30 年的歲月，從原本愛哭的我，到現在就算是再感性的時分，也可以發覺理性隱在身後的影子，好山好水好人情，恐怕是少數幾項能夠讓我熱淚盈眶，而忘記本身的了。刻意摒棄眼淚之後，才發現眼淚是多麼單純的倚靠。

終於，天際漸漸地亮起來，雨捧場地停了，健行的隊伍也在眼前。背著兩公升的喝水包，加入這個一百多人的大陣列。而我也漸漸地發覺昨日男友苦著臉的原因，一段路後，我就再也看不到他了。相信他不會迷路的前提下，本著鍛鍊的目的，我仍然依著我的速率前進。

最初的一段路，約末 2 miles 的距離，隊伍是依著公路前進的，我不禁納悶起來，在我的認知裡面， hiking 可是踩著泥土岩石等天然地形前進的，莫非在英文的定義裡， hiking 是「一段有起點有終點，必須以走路完成的旅程」？腦袋著翻著我所隸屬的團體 Appalachian Mountain Club 的活動列表，突然迸出每幾月就會在費城城市區舉辦的 Pub Hike ，這個 hike 的特點是，以走路的方式造訪費城市內的數個 Pub，然後在每個 Pub 乾掉一杯啤酒，沿途上選擇性地「可能」會經過費城的古蹟，是一個相當有意思的 hike，我由於享有「Miss Half Bottle」的美號，而從來沒敢親身體驗的一個 hike。想通了之後，開始可以隨遇而安起來。

公路上的健行，像是郊區的散步，一段一段的小徑，從公路蜿蜒，漫過草坪、池塘、樹木，停滯在一棟棟的「數房、數廳、數衛浴、加上數車庫」的房子前面。有的前院築著小橋，跨過注入池塘的小水流；有的後院置著鞦韆、溜滑梯，是孩童的遊戲場。美國的地廣人稀可見一般，這典型的「美國夢」，打糊了焦點之後便成為青山綠水，田園野舍，而揭開這幅浪漫，是否是造就美國公路網，打壓公眾交通發達的隱性成因？美國的大眾運輸工具不發達，人口不夠集中，一直是被有心保育的人士所詬病的，畢竟推廣分享的觀念，就是一種節約。可惜，誰不願意一面抱有好景，一面享受現代生活的便利呢？如此權衡，到辦公地方半小時的車程，也不是什麼很大的犧牲了。不可否認的，以往我也對這種「類鄉村」的居住環境感到嚮往，只是健行的活動參加多了，被綠色觀念渲染的結果，心裡的秤鉈似乎又開始搖擺起來，怎麼說，現在就是盡可能地獻一份心力罷了。

有趣地，沿路上看了不下二十來棟房子，卻沒見著任何居民，瞥了一下時間，不過七點半鐘，也許居民們都還在夢鄉吧。而這一長串的健行隊伍，大家都在忙著超過大家，也許在終點線頒給第一名到達的獎盃真的很有吸引力吧。天空還是陰著，幸運地是沒有一點下雨的跡象。草地蒸發出雨水浸潤的味道，可憐的蚯蚓被積雨趕出泥巴地，卻被我們這一群急行軍，碾得稀巴爛，心裡有點疼起來，卻也沒有像沙灘上的小女孩，撿拾顆顆的海星，朝浪潮拋去的動力。

避著蚯蚓、走著曲線的同時，雙腳也發出渴望天然地形的訊號，健行登山鞋本來就不是用來走公路的啊。前面偏偏又是一座水泥橋，橋上可疑地停滿了車輛，到了橋中央一張望，橋墩、河岸佈滿了垂釣的人群，河面上泛著一兩舟備有馬達的小艇，舟上的人或站或坐，姿態雖是不同，可沒有人少拿了一條釣竿。健行的隊伍友善地和釣客揮手互道早安之後，領頭的一行人便跨過公路的柵欄往林中行去。

起起伏伏，左繞右轉，曲境通幽處是一面開朗的大草原。健行小徑鋪在草原上，不放大眼力瞧不著，小境通到哪裡，樹林小溪就跟到哪裡，林葉掩映處，偶然可以撿拾釣客的身影。我的鞋子踩著水，有節奏地發出啪啦啪啦地響聲。右面的草原風光被樹木取代，道上又是泥土、又是石塊、又是水窪，昨夜才在戶外雜誌的答客問讀到面對這時節泥濘道路的應對方式，沒想到今天就可以現學現賣了，硬著頭皮，盡量走在原本健行步道的最中央，管他稀泥還是水，Gore-Tex的健行鞋不害怕，呼嚕呼嚕穿過去就是了。這也是很多登山健行團體再三呼籲的「Leave No Trace」的觀念，不要因為道上的一點小水窪，而踏著原本開發路徑的旁側行走，而因此造成更多的破壞，如果路上的水窪居然可以行船，當然是另當別論，總而言之，留下的痕跡是愈少愈好。過了這一段泥濘的道路，我的鞋和長褲的褲管全都變成土色了，一點都沒有懊惱的感覺，反而嚐到一絲成就感，好像自己是個小功臣一樣。

在樹林間穿梭了一陣子，隊伍又從公路邊冒出來，幸好這節公路只是個過渡，隊伍欷欷窣窣又消失在公路柵欄邊上，搖擺婀娜的長著青綠的樹枝條兒後面。一會兒後，呈現在眼前的是，碎石子鋪設出來的甬道，路是無限地延伸，右手邊的小溪還是亦步亦趨，而左手邊的樹林、山石、土壤堆積出偌高的一座牆。面山背海，雖不中亦不遠矣。

河邊上的釣客顯然比橋墩上的少得多，偶爾見到的三兩點綴，都穿著著高過膝蓋的防水膠鞋，頂立在溪流之中，不動如山。也許是這裡的溪流較狹，水流較為湍急，水上不能行舟，這些釣客必須在溪中行走，必要時溯溪而上，比起垂釣的風光，少了份悠閒，多了份毅力，因此釣客才比較稀少吧。

碎石子鋪設的道路旁，出現了一些標示距離的標記，我忖度著，這條長段的道路，可能是附近居民，平常跑步、騎腳踏車、或是冬季 cross-country skiing的地方吧。果不其然，這個念頭剛轉過，迎面而來一群 trail runners，呼呼喘氣，在稍嫌清冷的空氣中，凍結出一團團的薄霧。又向前行進了好一會兒，那群慢跑者又從後頭趕上，我仔細端詳他們的背影，小腿上刻出明顯的肌肉，心中油然地讚嘆著。

今年的春天到達地遲了些，雖然額頭早已沁出汗珠，背上也被汗水潤濕，雙手仍舊被冰涼的早晨氣息，凍得發紅，我開始持續地舒展十隻手指，幫助血液循環，一邊眼光悛巡四周，尋找方便之點。這恐怕是對於身為一藉女兒身的我，唯一的抱怨了。對於一個女孩兒，總是得多一些掩蔽，少一些周圍的障礙物。好不容易相中個目標，左右張望一下，後頭接近中的健行者，對於我突然改變行進方向，心照不宣地，牽動了一下嘴角，我三步併作兩步，解開頭巾懸掛在轉角的樹枝上，解決了人生大事。

與慢跑一行人錯身數次之後，又是和公路短暫的交集，不出半哩路，就是第一個休息補給的地方，不但供給茶水，還有點心。主辦單位唱著健行者別在身上的編號，怕有人遺落在山林間。我眼明手快地吃掉最後一個甜甜圈，喝著熱可可，終於開始關心男朋友的行蹤。嗯，又吃掉半個 bagel ，數塊 cheese ，幾顆葡萄，男朋友的身影才姍姍來遲，我翹起大拇指以示鼓勵，和男友同時到達的 Phil 也含笑地對我打招呼。

我忙著招呼男友吃這個喝那個，他卻一點都提不起勁，說他走得快死了，膝蓋腳掌都不舒服，更沮喪的是同行的人一個一個超過他。我以一個過來人的身份勉勵他，說每一個人都會如此經過的，經驗愈多走得就會愈輕鬆了。他繼續說著，還好有 Phil 一路鼓勵他，要不然他根本走不完，還說 Phil 形容他的慘狀：對他而言，這個健行活動好比Death March 。我盡我的能力鼓勵他，他繼續哭嚎著說，「沒有用的，再怎麼樣都改變不了我是最後一個的事實。」我反射地說，「別擔心，還有 sweeper 啊！」「 Phil 就是那個 sweeper」。嘿，此時還是無聲勝有聲。

也因為如此，在完成 11.4 miles 之後，我們就打道回府了。一位在某個 visitor center 工作的老太太，熱心地載我們回原本停車的地方，閒聊中，發現這一個活動已經有超過 40 年的歷史，雖然遺憾這次半途而廢，明年還是可以繼續挑戰。